Phobjikha Valley
- peyalidas2009
- Jul 24, 2016
- 4 min read
There was always a desire to see a ’Black necked crane’. Therefore, a visit to Phobjika valley was obviously due. After all, it is the most important wild life reserve in country. An inner line permit for Bhutan is the first step for the journey, which has to be taken from Paro. However, we reached Phuntsholing, the border town in southern Bhutan from there we collected passes for Thimphu which is the capital and the largest city of Bhutan. Thimphu does not serve by an airport, but relies on the airport at Paro, connected by road, some 52 kms. On the way to Thimphu, we spent one night at Joygaon. To enter Phobjika we needed to collect passes from Thimphu. We reached Thimphu and found the permit office closed. The next day it was Sunday. So once again, no official work to be done. Almost two days of no work, that was indeed disappointing. However, on Monday we managed to get our passes for Phobjika.
From Thimphu we first halted at Wangdue Phodrang (nearly 100 kms from Thimphu).
Wangdue is in the central of Bhutan and named after a boy named ‘Wangdi’. There we visited ‘Dachu La Pass’ and ‘Punakha’. Peace prevails; moreover, it feels heavenly when I heard the sacred Buddhist chanting from the monasteries. We stayed there for a night.
Finally, next morning we reached Phobjika covering almost 85 kms. This is a wide glacial valley with a stream meandering through the open grassland and thickets of dwarf bamboo. Every winter ‘Black Necked Crane’ migrates from Tibet. They come in groups of 2-40 cranes. It sounds so interesting that they are coming from Tibet and we are migrating from Kolkata to see them. We crossed Pele La Pass (3,400 m) in the black mountains and Trongsa (new village). Took some snaps quickly and then move on again. In sometimes we could see the board on which it is wrote-‘WELCOME TO PHOBJIKA VALLEY –THE LAKE OF BLACK NECKED CRANE’. From there the road goes uphill. The road to Phobjika valley climbs three kilometer through a forest of conifer and rhododendrons to Lawala pass (3360m). In addition, vegetation of bamboo and Himalayan larch on both sides of the roads intersects Gangte Monastery. I saw a beautiful valley through the window and asked about it- Lama said that is the ‘Phobjika Valley’ (approx 3000m), which has marshy lands and the roads travel downwards from the Gonpa. Though the valley is beautiful in itself, its fame is all due to the cranes. The local people of Phobjika are also too obsessed about these cranes. Cranes are the integral part of their existence and have made permanent place in their daily life- emotions-folk tales and legends. These cranes occupy most of the water lands of Phobjika. Perhaps, the black necked cranes have the total hold on the entire place of Phobjika. However, we reached there in 30 minutes and as we reached, immediately we could spot a team of 12 cranes- the boon of nature, they were as beautiful and eye catching but we were not that fortunate to capture it, they went out of the range of our lenses.
Finally, we reached there and stayed in the hotel Ghakiling. For lunch, we had ‘red rice’ and ‘Ema dachi’ (made of cheese and red chilies) tastes delicious. Just down stairs, we had Black necked crane visitor’s center, controlled by the Royal Society for protection of Nature. Forest department and RSPN run the conservation work together. There we got some added information regarding the area coverage of Phobjika, which is around 161.9km, and the population is 4716. The maximum temperature prevails here is 18 ‘c and minimum is -8’c. This place is a buffer zone at north east of Jigme Singye Wangchuck National Park.
The picturesque Phobjika Valley, in the backdrop of Black Mountain range has rich biodiversity of Flora and Fauna.
Flora: Rhododendron, Magnolia, Circicam, Hypericam,
Butterflies: Queen of Spain Fritillary, Dark Clouded yellow, Indian Tortoises Hell, Hill sergeant.
Avifauna: Blood Pheasant, Common Kestrel, Alpine accentor, Grey Winged Blackbird, Satyr Tragopan, streaked laughing Thrush, Whiskered Yuhinia, Winter Wren
It is absolutely the bird Lover’s paradise.
Our local guide told us a pack of six cranes could be seen at evening. It was almost around 5:00 pm that we could manage to spot them. We found them busy returning to their nests. I was lucky to get some close ups. We left no chance of capturing them. I was feeling as if our visit to Phobjika was a great success.
The mornings in mountains are as beautiful and cherishing as the nights. Here in Phobjika, we woke up by the echoes of chorus of the cranes. As we entered a little interior, we saw few black necked cranes. They are medium in size and mostly grey with black neck and head. The lores and crown are naked and dull red. Small patches of white feathers are present below and behind the eye. The tail is black and makes it easy to distinguish at a distance rom the similar looking common crane, which has grey tail. These birds are the major attraction indeed.
At afternoon, we visited ‘Kumba Lhakhang’, ‘Klewang Lhakhang’and ‘Pamchoi Lhakhang’ temples. In no time it started raining. We had no other option other than to get back to our hotels. Now it was time for us to return back to our home. On the way we visited the snow covered Gangte Monastery again. Carrying all the memories of the place we went off. Visiting such a place once is not enough so promised to visit here again in near future.
INFO
How to Go : Permit from Thimphu is to be taken to reach Phobjika.
By train: reach Alipur Duar or Hasimara and proceed to Bhutan by road.
By air: Druk airways operate from kolkata to Paro on weekely basis.
From, Shiliguri Bagdogra airport, Bhutan border is 4hrs drives.
When to Go: The best time to visit Phobjika Valley is during winter’s i.e early November to mid December.
Things to remember; Must visit Gangte Monastery, ‘Dachu La Pass’, and ‘Punakha’
Lawala Pass. Apart from that Kumba Lhakhang’, ‘Klewang Lhakhang’and ‘Pamchoi Lhakhang’ temples are the major attractions.
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